lead blogmaster person at RESIST,RISE,LOVE !!!!!! BY: MICHAEL J. LUDOWISE [MJL]
WHERE TO BEGIN? HOW ABOUT SEEDS…WHERE DO I GET ALL NATURAL SEEDS?
CLICK HERE TO BUY R.R.L. CERTIFIED NON-GMO SEEDS FOR YOUR GARDEN.
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Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co. sells only Open-Pollinated, Pure, Natural, and Non- GMO seeds. This has been and will continue to be our guiding principle.
Why is this so? It’s because we are guided by the Golden Rule: we would not sell anything that we would consider potentially harmful to the health of others or the environment.
What do these terms mean? Here’s a brief overview.
Open pollination is achieved by insects, birds, wind, or other natural mechanisms. The seeds of open-pollinated plants will produce new generations of those plants. One of the bigger challenges in maintaining a strain by open pollination is avoiding introduction of pollen from other strains. Based on how broadly the pollen for the plant tends to disperse, it can be controlled to varying degrees by greenhouses, tall wall enclosures, or field isolation. Popular examples of plants produced under open pollination conditions include the heirloom tomato. Baker Creek is using tent enclosures in its own gardens to house the plants. Bumble bees are then introduced to control the pollination. This prevents cross-pollination from undesirable sources, as well as preventing cross-pollination between strains.
Pure and Natural seeds means that you start with a product that is untreated and free of pesticides. Although our seeds are not certified organic, they can certainly be used in an organic garden and many are grown by organic farmers. Also, they are not genetically modified.
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In sharp contrast to hybrids, Heirlooms trace their ancestry back many years to a time when pesticides and herbicides were not in use. As Jere Gettle, the owner of Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co. puts it, “Basically, an Heirloom seed is one that has been passed down through families and is usually considered to be over 50 years old. Some varieties even date back to Thomas Jefferson’s garden and beyond.” Unlike hybrids or GMO’s which often have problems reproducing to the parent strain, Heirloom seeds can be saved and replanted, ensuring a trustworthy supply of family food year AFTER YEAR AFTER YEAR…AGAIN AFTER year ! .https://bitminer.io/1361008 https://bitminer.io/1361008 <—ME, MIKE AGAIN…ITS SAFE
A Genetically Modified Organism (GMO) results from a discipline called Genetic Engineering which involves taking genes from one species and inserting them into another. For example, genes from an arctic flounder which has “antifreeze” properties may be spliced into a tomato to prevent frost damage. It is impossible to guide the insertion
of the new gene. This can lead to unpredictable effects. Also, genes do not work in isolation but in highly complex relationships which are still not fully understood. Any change to the DNA at any point will affect it throughout its length in ways scientists cannot predict. The claim by some that they can is both arrogant and untrue.
Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co.’s business continues to grow every year as the public interest in Heirloom fruits and vegetables has grown. Why? Two reasons, says Jere. First of all, good flavor. “People are really tired of the way produce in the supermarket tastes anymore,” he says. “They remember it when they were kids, and they remember their grandma’s garden. The tomatoes tasted good and the melons were sweet. Everything that they’re bringing in from Mexico and California is picked green and shipped, and it just doesn’t taste like it used to.” Secondly, people are starting to get more concerned that the nutritional value is gone as well. “More and more allergies keep developing,” says Jere. “And a lot of people think that might have something to do with genetic engineering, all the different chemicals they’re spraying on the foods.”
The bottom line: Because agri-business companies cannot positively assure the public through replicatable tests that eating GMO food is safe, then food that has been genetically modified should be labeled as such, as a bare minimum precaution. This would cost practically nothing and would give consumers a choice, instead of being unwittingly lulled into buying food that might be bad for them.
All outdoor GMO plantings should be banned outright due to cross-pollination and patent infringement issues that are causing a loss of genetic diversity and an increase in new weeds, and have threatened the livelihood of farmers.
CLICK HERE AND SCROLL THROUGH OUR DONATIONS PAGE TO GET REAL-NATURAL-NO GMO- SEEDS ! GARDEN-MEDICINE-HERBAL-[CANNABIS SITES AVAILABLE BELOW-VOID WHERE LEGAL MATTERS STEP IN…INFO PURPOSES IMPLIED AND PROTECTED.
LET’S PLAN THE GARDEN LAYOUT AND MEDIUMS FOR GROWING !
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This figure image is a fine example of where to plant what !
Here you see a typical soil plot/patch worked nicely ! tillers are handy ! though many non powered technics and tools available for EXTREME PLANNING. RMEMBER IN THE UNLIKELY EVENT OF ARMAGEDDON YOU SHOULD BE SCHOOLED AND PRACTICED IN HAND WORKING THE GROUND AND OR USING NON POWERED TOOLS TO WORK THE LAND !
NON POWERED GROUND TILLERS AND MORE
MIKE’S POWER HOUSE TOOLS ” MAN-MADE” FOR TRUE FREEDOM !
THIS NEXT PIC IS AN AMAZINGLY SIMPLE ROW CROP PLANTER HOLE DIGGING THINGY MAJIGGY !! TOTALLY COOL!CAN BE MADE FROM WOOD/IRON/PLASTICS/ETC….
Homemade Garden Tools from Recycled Materials…
Chemical-Free NO GMO-PESTICIDE FREE Home Orchards [ FRUIT TREES !!!]
BARE ROOT METHOD ABOVE
Buy a bare root fruit tree. Sweet apples, plums, pears and other fruits come from trees that have been grafted so that they produce the best-tasting fruit. Although fruit trees can be planted from seed, the resulting trees won’t necessarily produce fruit that’s good to eat. In order to make sure the tree you grow will produce fruit you’ll want to eat, the best idea is to buy a bare root fruit tree, which is a very young tree that has already been grafted.
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You can find bare rootstock in nurseries in the late winter months.
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Buying bare rootstock from a local nursery is your best bet, since it will stock trees that do well in your particular region.
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Bare root trees should be planted as soon as possible after purchase.
Buy a bare root fruit tree. Sweet apples, plums, pears and other fruits come from trees that have been grafted so that they produce the best-tasting fruit. Although fruit trees can be planted from seed, the resulting trees won’t necessarily produce fruit that’s good to eat. In order to make sure the tree you grow will produce fruit you’ll want to eat, the best idea is to buy a bare root fruit tree, which is a very young tree that has already been grafted.
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You can find bare rootstock in nurseries in the late winter months.
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Buying bare rootstock from a local nursery is your best bet, since it will stock trees that do well in your particular region.
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Bare root trees should be planted as soon as possible after purchase
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Look for an open, sunny spot in the yard. Fruit trees generally need at least six hours of full sunlight in order to grow strong and produce healthy fruit. Look for a spot in the yard where the fruit tree won’t be shaded by your home or other taller trees. You should also look for a spot without a lot of other foliage nearby, so the tree won’t have to compete with other plants for nutrients and water.
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You should also select the location of your fruit tree by imagining it at full size. Take into account its width and understand that the roots of your tree will reach out as far as the length of the branches. This means that you don’t want it too close to a building or driveway.
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Digging a Hole and Preparing the Ground
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Prepare to plant in the spring. Fruit trees can be planted at any time of year, but in areas with cold winters, your best bet is to wait until spring. This will allow the tree to immediately start adapting to the soil and growing roots. It’s also the best time of year for breaking ground, since the soil will be thawed and easy to dig.
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Add compost to the soil if necessary. If you have clay-heavy soil, or soil that is hard and packed, it’s a good idea to till the soil to a depth of at least 2 feet (0.6 m) and work in some compost. This will loosen the soil, provide better drainage and make room for the tree’s roots to begin growing. Use a garden spade or a tiller to break up and loosen the soil, then add compost and mix it in.
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Dig a wide hole. Use a shovel to dig a hole twice as wide as the spread of the roots of the tree you’re planting. Fruit trees’ roots tend to grow outward, and this will give them plenty of room. Make sure that the roots are surrounded by loose soil so that they are not challenged by compressed earth.
- At the same time, it’s important not to dig the hole too deep. Since you’re working with a grafted bare root, it’s important that the graft at the base of the tree stay above the soil.
- If you’re planting more than one tree, plant them at least 18 inches (45.7 cm) apart. The more space you can give them, the better.[4]
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4.Follow directions for amending the soil during the fruit tree planting process. Depending on what type of tree you’re planting and what your soil quality is, you may want to add organic nutrients to the hole you’ve dug before planting. In some cases, all that is needed is a sprinkle of compost on the base of the hole.
- Check with the nursery regarding amending soil and what they suggest. In some cases you may not even have to amend the soil because the existing soil contains enough nutrition.
- Don’t add compost and other nutrients unless you’re advised to do so. Once the roots grow past the amended soil, they’ll need to be able to survive on the nutrients that are naturally available, so giving them very rich soil to begin with won’t be helpful in the long run.
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Position the tree in the hole. Throw a little loose soil into the hole about a finger length high to create a mound, and position the root ball of your fruit tree on top of the center of the mound. Spread out the roots and make sure the graft line situated at the base of the trunk is higher than the level of the ground. Add or remove soil from the mound accordingly. Ensure that no roots are exposed.
- If there are roots at or above the graft, cut these roots off and double check that the graft is above ground. If roots are able to reach the soil from the graft, the tree will always have sucker shoots growing from the base that will weaken the tree.
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6Press soil around the roots. Fill the hole surrounding the root of your tree with your nourished soil, and make sure that you cover all the roots completely. Stand back and check that the fruit growing tree is standing vertical. Press the soil down gently.
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Water the roots. Thoroughly the area so that the soil fills in around the tree’s roots. Add more soil, press it down gently and water again. Continue this process until the soil reaches the actual ground level.
- Be sure not to overwater the tree, however; if the roots remain waterlogged, they can rot.
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8Stake your fruit tree if needed. If you’re in an area with strong winds, stake it by tying it to a strong stick with a generous strip of cloth or rubber. Make sure that it is loose enough to avoid restraining the tree as the trunk grows. Staking will also help the tree grow straight and tall.
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9Cover the soiled area with a layer of organic mulch. This will retain the moisture in the soil and protect the roots. It will prevent grass and weeds from growing and competing for nutrients and water as well. Ensure that the graft line is not covered by mulch; it needs to remain visible above ground level.
Part 3Caring for a Fruit Tree
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1Decide whether to prune. If you want the tree to produce fruiting branches low to the ground, you can prune it to knee height and cut back the side branches to one or two buds. This will direct the tree’s energy to producing low branches at the cuts you made.[5] On the other hand, you can lop off the bottom branches if you’d prefer the tree not to have branches low to the ground.
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2Protect the tree from sunburn. Many fruit tree growers use a diluted solution of half white latex paint, half water to paint the tree trunk to act as a sunscreen. If you live in a region with very strong sun, like the Southwestern US, using this method will protect your tree from sun damage.
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3Control weeds. It’s important to weed the area around the tree as it grows to protect the roots and keep the tree growing healthy and strong. Pull the weeds by hand, rather than using an herbicide.[6]
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4Don’t overwater. Keeping the soil constantly wet is not necessary, and can lead to the roots rotting. Let the rainwater your tree. If a week has passed with no rainfall, water it thoroughly, then let it dry out again.
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By planting our own fruit trees, most of us hope to have beautiful, nutritious and chemical-free fruit. But there are so many diseases and “bad bugs,” how can we grow organically and not end up with worm-infested fruit? I counted 26 viruses, eight bacteria, and 26 fungi that could damage our trees or fruit. And that wasn’t including the “pests:” maggots, moths, beetles, caterpillars, maggots and borers!
Before giving up or arming ourselves with dozens of chemicals, let me reassure you that it is possible to have healthy trees and beautiful fruit without poisoning our environment and our bodies. I’ll first explain why most “Integrated Pest Management” or even many “organics” won’t result in our chemical-free goal. I’ll then discuss two successful methods that work with nature to avoid chemicals; one method is reducing the level of disease and the other is boosting our fruit trees’ immunity.
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Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
IPM is not an integral part of growing organically, but instead is used to reduce the amount of chemicals used. Commercial apples have 47 pesticide residues per USDA’s pesticide data program, (https://www.ewg.org/foodnews/index.php), so reducing chemicals remains a worthy goal for commercial fruit. But IPM doesn’t get us much closer to having chemical-free fruit.
An example of IPM is the use of phernome traps. These traps alert the orchardist when certain pests arrive so spraying can be done at that specific time instead of randomly. That reduces the amount of chemicals used and is an improvement for the environment, but not good enough for us and our families.
Growing disease-resistant cultivars of fruit trees should be helpful, but in the 15 years of growing both heirloom and disease-resistant fruit trees using methods listed below, I have not seen any advantage to the disease-resistant varieties.
Organic Insecticides
Just because something is labeled “organic” doesn’t mean it’s harmless. “Pyrethrum” is a chemical derived from chrysanthemums and can be used on certified-organic farms. It works by paralyzing insects. We keep beehives in our orchard as a constant reminder that honey bees are insects too, and we don’t want to kill them! Another chemical which is certified for organic orchards is copper sulfate. It is used for fungal and some bacterial infections, but is “highly lethal” to bees.
If something is labeled “insecticide,” it will kill pollinator bees, beneficial wasps and butterflies — even if it is also labeled “organic.”
Sometime pests are overwhelming but can be handled in ways that don’t affect other animals. A few years ago Japanese beetles were doing extensive damage to fully-ripened fruit. I spent many early summer mornings and evenings–when coolness made it more difficult for beetles to fly–knocking Japanese beetles into a bucket of soapy water. This diminished their numbers, but what also helped was “Milky Spore.” It is sold under the same name as the bacterium from which it’s derived. By staying underground, it kills the grub-stage of the Japanese beetle without harming beneficial insects or other animals. The product costs about $30 a can but is only put into the soil one time where it then multiplies itself.
Reducing the Amount of Disease and Pests Without Chemicals
If IPM and organic insecticides don’t allow us to grow chemical-free, what other things can we do?
We stay healthy by doing basic things like washing our hands and avoiding sick people. Likewise, if we want our fruit trees to stay healthy, we’ll reduce their exposure to disease.
Barriers are a simple method of keeping pests from damaging our trees without the use of chemicals. This includes tree guards around trunks that keep rodents from chewing bark and allowing other pathogens to enter. Nets over cherry trees keep birds from getting our harvest, electric fences keep out deer and even disposable shoe-store socks keep insects off our precious peaches! Placing these “footies” on early in a fruit’s development eliminates all pest damage.
Reducing the amount of disease your fruit trees are exposed to can also be accomplished by removing diseased wood, leaves and fruit from the orchard. At the end of each season, be sure to remove old fruit from fruit trees and the ground to keep disease-levels low.
Allow nature to help you reduce pests in your orchard by encouraging beneficials like songbirds and beneficial insects. There’s no better way to do this than by establishing a variety of plants which provide habitat for other creatures. To increase habitat, our orchard grass includes comfrey and clover and the orchard is surrounded by blackberries and hazelnuts.
Songbirds feed dozens of caterpillar to their young according to Doug Tallamy, author of Bringing Nature Home: How Native Plants Sustain Wildlife in Our Gardens. Having more wildlife to enjoy is a delightful way to decrease insect damage. Working with nature to restore balance in our environment also allows our fruit trees to better withstand disease.
Improving our fruit trees’ immune system is the second major way we can have healthy trees and fruit without using chemicals. Boosting their immune systems includes some of the things discussed in previous blogs such as proper pruning and improving fruit trees’ soil.
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SAFE PESTICIDES AND FERTILIZERS/METHODS…BY:MJL
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BANANA PEELS – Eating a banana helps replenish lost potassium. Roses love potassium too. Simply throw one or two peels in the hole before planting or bury peels under mulch so they can compost naturally. Get bigger and more blooms. I also use banana peels on my vegetables.
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COFFEE GROUNDS – Acid-loving plants such as tomatoes, blueberries, roses and azaleas may get a jolt out of coffee grounds mixed into the soil. But more likely it’s the nitrogen that helps. Sprinkled on top of the ground before watering or pour a liquid version on top of the soil. If using as a soil drench, soak 6 cups of coffee grounds in a 5 gallon bucket of water. Let it sit for 2-3 days and then saturate the soil around your plants.
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EGG SHELLS – Wash them first, then crush. Work the shell pieces into the soil near tomatoes and peppers. The calcium helps fend off blossom end rot. Eggshells are 93% calcium carbonate, the same ingredient as lime, a tried and true soil amendment! I use eggshells in my homemade potting mix. This gives me healthy, beautiful fruits fit for seed saving.
how to make your own fertilizer
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SEAWEED – Fresh seaweed does not need to be washed before use to remove salt. Learn much about using seaweed and kelp. See examples. Asian markets sell dried seaweed. Both fresh and dried versions are considered excellent soil amendments. Seaweed contains trace elements and actually serves as a food source for soil microbes. Chop up a small bucket of seaweed and add it to 5 gallons of water. Let it sit for 2-3 weeks loosely covered. Use it to drench the soil and foliage. 2 cups work well for a small plant, 4 cups for a medium plants and 6 cups for a large plant. Experiment with amounts. Combine seaweed with other tea fertilizers.
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WEEDS – You’ve got your own fertilizer growing under your feet! Nettles, comfrey, yellow dock, burdock, horsetail and chickweed make wonderful homemade fertilizer. There are several ways you can use them to make your own brew or to speed up your compost pile. If your weeds have not gone to flower you can dry them in the sun and chop them up to use as a mulch. They are high in nitrogen and won’t rob your plants of nutrients. Borage (starflower) is an herb but for some people it’s a weed. It has many of the same nutritional properties as comfrey. I dry the entire plant, root and all, and put it in my compost tumbler. It helps break everything down and gives the pile and extra dose of heat. Some folks let the weeds soak for many days. For an extended brew, get out the bucket and your bandana! The bandana you’ll need for your nose because this technique gets stinky! I’m not a fan of fermented fertilizers but if you want to take the “putrid plunge” place a bunch of weed leaves and roots in a 5 gallon bucket. Weigh down the leaves with a brick to ensure the plant matter is covered and add water to cover. Stir weekly and wait 3-5 weeks for the contents to get thick an gooey. Then use that goo, diluted 1:10 or more as a soil drench fertilizer. To make it even more convenient, you can use two buckets and make a hole in the bottom of the bucket that contains the plants. The goo will seep through to the lower bucket. It’s always best to apply the liquid fertilizer diluted – it should look like weak tea.
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MOLASSES – Using molasses in compost tea supposedly increases microbes and the beneficial bacteria that microbes feed on. If you want to start out with a simple recipe for molasses fertilizer, mix 1-3 tablespoons of molasses into a gallon of water. Water your plants with this concoction and watch them grow bigger and healthier.
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Despite the ‘yuk!’ factor, urine from healthy individuals is virtually sterile, free of bacteria or viruses. Naturally rich in nitrogen and other nutrients, urine has been used as fertilizer since ancient times. Urine fertilization is rare today. However, it has gained attention in some areas as farmers embrace organic production methods and try to reduce use of synthetic fertilizers.
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HUMAN URINE – Sounds disgusting, but urine is considered sterile if the body it’s coming from is healthy and free of viruses and infection. High in nitrogen, urea contains more phosphorous and potassium than many of the fertilizers we buy at the store! If serving tomatoes that have been fertilized with pee gives you the “willies”, try it in the compost pile. A good ratio of urine to water would be 1:8. You can collect a cup of urine and pour it into 8 cups of water in a plastic bucket used outside for fertilizing plants. Pour 2 cups around the perimeter of each SMALL plant. For MEDIUM plants add 4 cups and LARGE plants deserve a good 6 cups of your personal home brew.
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Researchers in Finland are reporting successful use of an unlikely fertilizer for farm fields that is inexpensive, abundantly available, and undeniably organic — human urine. Their report on use of urine to fertilize cabbage crops is scheduled for the Oct. 31 issue of ACS’ Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry.
Despite the ‘yuk!’ factor, urine from healthy individuals is virtually sterile, free of bacteria or viruses. Naturally rich in nitrogen and other nutrients, urine has been used as fertilizer since ancient times.
Urine fertilization is rare today. However, it has gained attention in some areas as farmers embrace organic production methods and try to reduce use of synthetic fertilizers.
In the new study, Surendra K. Pradhan and colleagues collected human urine from private homes and used it to fertilize cabbage crops. Then they compared the urine-fertilized crops with those grown with conventional industrial fertilizer and no fertilizer.
The analysis showed that growth and biomass were slightly higher with urine than with conventional fertilizer.
There was no difference in nutritional value of the cabbage. “Our results show that human urine could be used as a fertilizer for cabbage and does not pose any significant hygienic threats or leave any distinctive flavor in food products,” the report concludes.
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GRASS CLIPPINGS – Rich in nitrogen, grass breaks down over time and enhances the soil. Fill a 5 gallon bucket full of grass clippings. You can even add weeds! Weeds soak up nutrients from the soil just as much as grass. Add water to the top of the bucket and let sit for a day or two. Dilute your grass tea by mixing 1 cup of liquid grass into 10 cups of water. Apply to the base of plants using the same amounts as listed above in the urine recipe.
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MANURE – With a little effort, you’ll find folks that are giving away composted chicken, horse or cow manure for free. Composted and aged manure is best. Add the composted manure to a small permeable bag made from recycled cloth, e.g., a t-shirt or old towel. Let it steep in the shade for a few days and apply it to your soil to condition it before planting. Bury or discard the used bag. Some people use manure tea to soak bare root roses!
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CAT AND DOG FOOD – Depending on the dog food you recycle, this soil amendment may not be organic. However, even the cheap stuff contains protein and micro-nutrients that benefit the soil. To prepare a garden plot for planting, sprinkle dry pet food on the bed, turn the soil and water. Let it decay naturally. To discourage wildlife from visiting for a snack, cover with cardboard until the food decomposes. The cardboard will also trap moisture and discourage weeds. Make sure the cardboard get wet all the way through and cover with mulch. Water thoroughly every week for four weeks. Soybean meal and alfalfa pellets from the grain store work great too. Sometimes grain stores will sell for cheap or give away spoiled grains. Check the feed for salt content and try not to add pet or animal food considered high in sodium. The AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) recommends dry dog food contain a minimum of 3% sodium to support normal growth and development.
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MY FAVORITE – WORM CASTINGS – Make your own worm tea -it’s easy. Start with a handful of red wiggler worms and set them up with some tasty cardboard and kitchen scraps. Learn how. I started about 8 years ago and haven’t stopped since. Check out our video on composting with worms to see how easy it is to make this amazing fertilizer!
Get the “Ultimate Collection of EASY, ORGANIC Recipes for Edible Gardens using FREE and Recycled Materials”
There is no other reference out there that covers as many materials and techniques under one cover.”
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Learn how to recycle weeds, seashells, beer grains and more to improve your soil, save money and grow organic vegetables, herbs and fruit. This 230-page eBook profiles many natural materials found inside and outside your home that can benefit your garden. Find out which edibles to use them on, why they might work, and at what stage in the growth cycle they are most effective.
Discover why some fertilizers fail to give you results. You won’t apply the wrong nutrient at the wrong time again! Also get important warnings so you and your plants stay healthy.
Recycle these materials and more into organic fertilizers and soil amendments:
Alfalfa, banana peels, beans, beer (spent grains), borage, borax, comfrey, coffee grounds, compost, cover crops and green manures, crustacean shells, egg shells, Epsom salt, fish, grass, hair, leaves, manure (chicken, cow, goat, horse, rabbit, sheep), milk, nut shells, pet food, pine needles and straw, rainwater, rock dust, seaweed an kelp, urine (warnings too), weeds, wood and plant ashes and worm castings.
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Organic Pest Control Tips for Chemical-Free Gardening
If every growing season you struggle with garden pests that damage and even ruin your harvest, there are several critical steps you should take to change your garden ecosystem now:
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Get rid of all chemical products. YES, all synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides and soil amendments! Synthetic fertilizers create a burst of growth that weakens a plant’s ability to fend off pests. Other chemicals kill the good bugs and creatures that keep pests under control.
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Grow a variety of plants, next to each other. For example, plant borage near your tomatoes to attract pollinators. There’s strength in companionship in the garden. By growing different flowering plants, including herbs, you attract a multitude of natural predators and pollinators that keep your garden in balance. Do not devote an entire raised bed to one type of crop. Plant other crops in between to mix things up and to confuse pests.
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Really look at your plants. Look for creatures, not fruit. Train your eye to scan an entire stem, flip leaves up and inspect them for tiny worms that do major damage. Admiring your plants gives you other benefits – you will see things you didn’t know you had in the garden.
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Encourage pollinators with native shrubs and flowers. Most pollinators have specific plants that they lay their eggs on. A perfect example of this is the monarch butterfly. It only lays its eggs on milkweed. The adult butterfly will eat other plants but the caterpillar will only eat milkweed.
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Know the difference between pests and friendly bugs and insects. Do you know what the different is between a squash bug and leaf-footed bug? Do you know what a lacewing looks like. Is she good or bad? This is key. Beneficial insects will eat caterpillars, aphids and other pests that can ruin your vegetables and fruit.
This 107-page eBook features amazing photos of fascinating creatures found in the
garden along with fun, surprising and proven methods to control pests without using chemicals or even homemade pepper sprays.
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Organic activists are on the attack at the local level in a bid to influence global acceptance of genetic engineering. For years we’ve been asking why those leading the organic industry are so dead-set opposed to genetically modified organisms. GMOs are already cutting down drastically on pesticide use, fuel consumption and the amount of land devoted to agriculture. Aren’t these the stated goals of the organic movement? This 20-year-old technology will also soon lead to drastic reductions in agricultural water-use, and genetically engineered crops capable of pulling their own nitrogen from the earth’s atmosphere are already on the drawing board. Innovations like these will further reduce the amount of energy farmers use, along with the overall amount of energy humankind requires as it continues to produce more food on less land for more people.
And yet, a fierce either-or (and we must stress one-sided) debate ensues between a minority activists who want the entire world to “go organic”, and scientists and humanitarians who are using genetics and biotechnology to improve our food and medicine. If science makes the human race more efficient in the areas of transpo
Opponents of GM food understand that diminished understanding and lack of knowledge is the key to obstructing biotechnology.
—American Medical Association
“[T]he GM debate is over. It is finished. We no longer need to discuss whether or not it is safe. … You are more likely to get hit by an asteroid than to get hurt by GM food.” So said Mark Lynas, the British environmentalist, who helped launch the anti-GMO movement in the 1990s.
Lynas went on to say that “people who want to stick with organic are entitled to—but they should not stand in the way of others who would use science to find more efficient ways to feed billions.”
We could not have put it more succinctly ourselves.
rtation, communication and housing, then surely it can, and should, also help us in the vital arena of food production. Shouldn’t it? The world’s premier national and international academies of science have reached an unqualified consensus that GMO crops are good for the poor and hungry. Even the president of the Pontifical Academy of Sciences stated recently, “Genetically-modified food represents a step forward in evolution.”
Crop biotechnology 2.0
While most people think only of commercial crops like Monsanto’s Roundup Ready canola or Bt corn when they hear mention of GM food, the three of us (two academics and a former organic inspector) are left to wonder why an entire discipline is being rejected by “organic” anti-GMO activists when this discipline holds such promise beyond the commercial realm. Commercial crops, which farmers can freely choose to grow, are only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to debating the two competing philosophies of food production before us.
GMO crops that fix their own nitrogen would drastically reduce energy consumption on conventional farms by eliminating the natural gas used in synthesizing ammonium nitrate and the fuel burned in trucks that deliver that fertilizer to farms. Such technology could eliminate the current organic practice of planting legume cover crops, which are subsequently plowed down to trap nitrogen in the soil. This could cut an organic farmer’s fuel bill by as much as 50 percent! If only the organic industry would consider accepting GMO crops on a case-by-case basis, there could be the possibility of a more rational approach to the new technology of genetic engineering.
And what, we hasten to ask anti-GMO activists, about a life-saving GMO crop like Golden Rice? According to the World Health Organization, 250,000 to 500,000 children in the developing world go blind each year due to vitamin A deficiency, half of whom die within a year. 250 million preschool children, mainly in urban slums, suffer from this deficiency. In all, 2-3 million people die from vitamin A deficiency-related diseases every year.
Protestors rally against Monsanto. (Credit: Infrogmation of New Orleans, via Wikimedia Commons)
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